Gaglioppo
The red grape variety is present throughout Calabria although the main area is in the province of Crotone, specifically between Cirò, Cirò Marina, and Melissa. The Gaglioppo seems to have originated in Cirò, near the Ionian sea, on the hills of Cremissa, present-day Cirò Marina, during the time of the ancient Greek Magna Grecia, with actual wine pipelines to transport the wine to the city's port and then ship it throughout the Mediterranean. At that time, the wine made from the Gaglioppo grape, called Krimisa, was famous and highly regarded and a symbol of the Olympic games. The term Gaglioppo means "closed fist" or "beautiful foot". "Closed fist" is to emphasise the compactness and robustness of its cluster. However a second and more likely hypothesis refers to the Greek language, combining "kalos" and "podos", "beautiful foot". The reference is either to the shape of the cluster, resembling a foot, or its well-defined and aesthetically beautiful stem. The characteristic of Gaglioppo that explains its spread in this area is its resistance to drought, high temperatures, and arid-dry climates. Specifically, in the Crotone areas where it is grown, the climate is defined as sub-humid to sub-arid, with a severe water shortage in the summer combined with the hilly nature of the region and the proximity to the Ionian coast, with the consequent sea breezes to temper the climate, creating an ideal context for its cultivation. Gaglioppo is the star of DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) Cirò, one of the first recognized in Italy, in 1969. Its production area includes the municipalities of Cirò and Cirò Marina, the original area of this grape variety, and part of the municipalities of Melissa and Crucoli, in the province of Crotone. The traditional form of cultivation is the "alberello". It has a compact cluster of medium size with berries rich in tannins and low in anthocyanins. This translates into low-color wines, but with great nerve and tension, which need time to soften and have a great potential for evolution.
Magliocco Dolce
A red berry vine primarily found in the Terre di Cosenza, the northernmost territory of the region bordering Basilicata. This region was called Calabria Citra during the period of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (Spanish Bourbons). Little is known about the history and past of this vine - of Greek origin just like its name, which means "tender knot", indicating the compact shape of the bunch. However, the first historical reference dates back to the 16th century only, and reached its climax during the 19th century. The production area is the largest in the region where viticulture is concentrated on a hillside strip between 500 and 700 meters. In addition, there are numerous viticultural experiences in the mountainous interior (Sila and Pollino), where viticulture is defined as heroic due to the very steep slopes on which grapes are cultivated. Over time, the expansion of territory has resulted in various synonyms for the same grapevine. A visit to the vineyards in the province of Cosenza is enough to encounter a complex network of synonyms, where the same grapevine is locally known by different names, and homonyms. The Magliocco Dolce is locally called Arvino, Mantonico Nero, Lacrima, Guarnaccia Nero, Maglioccuni. Listed in the Register of Wine Grape Varieties in 2019, there is much work to be done in terms of classification and valorization. The bunch is generally compact, the grape is round and covered in intense blue-black bloom, with a thick and polyphenol-rich skin. Maturity is late and can extend to late October early November. The characteristic of the Magliocco Dolce is to have a very strong anthocyanic charge, especially malvidin, and a very rich tannic structure, which gives intense and elegant tannin, suitable for aging.
Greco Bianco
The Greco Bianco grape variety has its history embedded in its name, tied to the Hellenics. It appears that the first introduction of the Greco Bianco to Italy happened in Calabria. The arrival of Greek seeds served as basis for most Italian grape varieties, with the Greco Bianco being a key player due to its adaptability and productivity. The Romans were skilled in exploiting and spreading Greek grapes throughout the Mediterranean. Over time, climatic adaptation and crossbreeding with other varieties have contributed to the creation of the large and numerous family of Italian grape varieties. As the protagonist of the Cirò DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) "white" wine, the Greco Bianco grape is also present in other Calabrian provinces, providing identity-driven wines. It is very versatile and adapts to the environment in which it is cultivated, providing each with specific characteristics. Today, the Greco Bianco is worked in various versions, ranging from slim and light wines to be consumed young, to more complex wines with a significant structure, as well as Classic Method, Orange, and Passito wine. The grape cluster is generally medium to large and winged, with a round berry with golden yellow skin, thick skin, and juicy pulp.
​
A separate discussion must be made for Greco di (of/from) Bianco, a grape variety closely related to the area of Bianco in the province of Reggio Calabria and the name of the DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) established in 1980 which regulates the production of a passito wine. Much has been written about the real identity of the grape variety with which this great passito is produced. Genetically more similar to the Malvasia family than to the Greek group of grape varieties, for many is synonymous for the Malvasia delle Lipari (Aeolian Islands). Recent DNA studies (2006) have shown that Malvasia delle Lipari is found in patches of lands thousands of kilometers apart. The Republic of Venice pushed the spread of this grape variety throughout the Mediterranean and beyond the Pillars of Hercules as testified by the several varieties named after their location (e.g. Malvasia di Lipari in the Aeolian Islands, Malvasia Dubrovacka in Dalmatia, Malvasia di Bosa or Malvasia di Sardegna in Sardinia, etc). The only exception is the Greco di Bianco in Calabria, but this is not surprising as the Greek name in these territories is very common and used to indicate different varieties. The Greco di Bianco DOP (Denomination of Protected Origin) regulates the production of the sun-dried macerated Passito wine. The Passito from Greco di Bianco has a brilliant color between antique gold and amber, and a wide complex fragrance, and a satisfying and enveloping sip. Today, thanks to vine growers like Antonella Lombardo, we have elegant and refined expressions of the dry Greco di Bianco, demonstrating the potential of this grape variety.
​
Zibibbo
You hear Zibibbo and the mind travels to Sicily despite the fact that the vine is also native to Calabria, where it was brought by the Phoenicians. The Zibibbo grape is linked to the territory of Pizzo (central-western Calabria), where until the second half of the 20th century it was mainly used as a table grape, appreciated for its aroma and sweetness. Only very small quantities were vinified, to be consumed in family gatherings and important occasions. In the 1960s, the cultivation in Pizzo declined and the vines were gradually uprooted. Just over 10 years ago, Cantina Benvenuto, followed by other producers, began to recover the terraces of Francavilla Angitola and Pizzo to reintroduce this precious grape to the market. The terraced hills overlooking the sea benefit from huge thermal excursions that, together with the granitic soil, give salty and mineral wines. It is precisely here that the grape finds a splendid expression in the dry version. The round and large berries with juicy pulp reach full maturity only at the end of September or in early October. Today, the Zibibbo of Pizzo Calabro is a Slow Food Presidium.
Pecorello
It is an indigenous white grape variety of probable Greek origins. The first written traces date back to the end of the 19th century. It is widespread in the areas of Terre di Cosenza and the Cirò regions, charactesies by different climates and soils: just a few meters from the sea in Cirò and at significant altitudes with a more rigid climate in the Terre di Cosenza. This grape variety expresses itself differently depending on the pedoclimatic environment in which it is cultivated and produces excellent wines that are either ready to drink or wines for meditation, capable of withstanding time. The grape cluster is medium to large, and the berries are medium to small, with a moderately thick and pruinose skin, rich in terpenes. It produces wines with a bright color, a wide and persistent range of aromas, and a savory and fresh taste that is pleasing to the palate. Although it was registered in 1971, its viticultural revolution is recent (2000) with a constant growth in quality production.
Mantonico
Autochthonous white grape variety of still mysterious origins, it seems to have been imported to the area of Locri (Reggio Calabria) in the 7th century BC by Greek colonists. Its name derives from the Greek word "mantonikos," which means divine, prophet. It is said that the wine produced from these grapes was drunk by the priests and diviners of ancient Locri Epizefiri for celebratory purposes. Today it is grown in the provinces of Cosenza, Crotone, and Reggio Calabria. The medium-sized bunches, with fairly thick-skinned, golden-yellow grapes, are used to produce both dry and passito wines.
